Butterfly lighting in photography: A guide for stunning portraits

If you’re a photographer looking to capture stunning portraits and glamourous headshots, butterfly lighting could be the perfect technique for you. But what exactly is it?  

In this guide, we share what butterfly lighting is in photography and how to set it up. We’ll also look at common mistakes and how to avoid them, as well as offer some top tips for using butterfly lighting. 

What is butterfly lighting? 

Butterfly lighting is a popular photographic lighting technique often used in portrait photography. It’s a great option for beauty and fashion photographers, and is created when a photographer’s main light source is placed directly in front of and slightly above the subject’s face and aimed down. This results in a shadow under the nose that resembles the butterfly shape that gives this flattering technique its name.

History and origins of butterfly lighting 

The butterfly lighting technique has a glamourous past and was a popular method of photography from the 1930s to the 1950s when photographers were taking beautiful portraits of famous film stars. In fact, it’s also known as Paramount lighting because of its popularity at Paramount Studios. This photography technique helped to showcase iconic actors and actresses, enhancing their beauty with the use of clever light placement. 

How to set up butterfly lighting 

Setting up butterfly lighting is fairly simple and requires just a main light. You can also choose to use a reflector, which can help to achieve a glossier look.  

• Place your flash directly in front of the subject and raise it until it’s slightly above their eye level.
• Then angle it down around 30–45 degrees. 
• If you’re using a reflector, place it below your subject’s chin so it bounces light back into the face. Using a reflector in this way helps to reduce shadows under the eyes and chin while creating a more even look. 

What are the key characteristics of butterfly lighting?

The key characteristics of this technique include:

•  A soft butterfly-shaped shadow under the model’s nose
• Light shadows beneath the cheeks and chin 
• Attractively defined cheekbones and jawline 
• Minimised wrinkles  
• An even-looking skin texture 

Butterfly lighting works best on models with defined cheekbones and oval or heart-shaped faces. 

When to use butterfly lighting 

There are plenty of occasions when butterfly lighting is the perfect option. These include: 

• Beauty photography: Butterfly lighting is ideal for photographers shooting content for skincare and make-up brands, as it produces a slightly sculpted effect and evens out skin tone. 
• Fashion or editorial portraits: It helps to create clear portrait photography with a focus on the head and shoulders.  
• Professional headshots: It’s a popular option for professional photographers shooting headshots, as it flatters most head shapes and makes people appear polished and confident. 
• Classic portraits: Due to its origins between the 1930s and 1950s, butterfly lighting can be used to take timeless, glamourous portraits that look especially dramatic in black and white. 

Common mistakes to avoid 

While butterfly lighting can beautify people and enhance their appearance, getting it wrong can have the opposite effect. For example, this lighting technique can emphasise a prominent nose or create unflattering shadows if the light isn’t positioned correctly. It’s also not a great choice for people with rounder faces, as it can widen and flatten the features. 

Some common mistakes to avoid when taking photos using butterfly lighting include: 

• Having the light too high: The light should be positioned around 30–45° above the model’s eye level 
• Positioning the light off-centre: Ensure the light is centred directly above the camera 
• Harsh shadows: Use soft, gentle light to avoid unflattering shadows
• Deep under-chin shadows: These can be avoided by using a reflector or fill light 
• Shiny skin: Shine can be eliminated using powder and by controlling exposure 
• Getting the wrong pose: Make sure the model understands the position they should be in and direct them where necessary 
• A flat background: Add background light for depth 

Tips for shooting with butterfly lighting 

If you’d like to try shooting with butterfly lighting, read our tips to help you take the best photos possible: 

• Position the main light correctly: Start with the light centred over the camera lens and adjust upward until you create a butterfly-shaped shadow beneath the nose.  
• Use soft lighting: This reduces the risk of harsh shadows and highlights (see our guide on soft light vs hard light in photography for more guidance). A beauty dish can help you achieve the perfect glow.
• Use a reflector or fill light: To avoid shadows under your model’s eyes and chin, place a reflector or fill light below their face.  
• Direct your model into the right pose: Your model should face the camera directly or with a very slight turn, elongate their neck, and slightly tilt their chin down. 
• Check where the butterfly shadow falls: If the butterfly shadow you’ve created doesn’t fall directly beneath your model’s nose, you’ll need to reposition your light. 
• Avoid shiny skin: Use face powder on your model before shooting to eliminate shine and create a clean, polished portrait. 
• Keep the background simple: Photos taken using butterfly lighting look best when the background is simple and uncluttered. 
• Choose the right model: Butterfly lighting works best on people with an oval or heart-shaped face and defined facial bone structure.
• Choosing the right model for this photo technique is vital in getting the perfect shots. 
• Test shots: Take a few test shots and make minor adjustments until you get the desired effect. Small changes in angle or position can make a big difference, so don’t be disheartened if it doesn’t look quite right on your first try. 

Specialist photography insurance through Ripe 

Now you know what butterfly lighting is and how to get the best results, you might want to think about buying specialist photography insurance to protect your equipment.   

Specialist photography insurance through Ripe covers theft and accidental damage to cameras, lenses, stands, tripods, cases, video and audio equipment, and accessories. You can also take out public liability insurance, which can help protect you in the case of third-party claims. 

Get an instant online quote today.